Sunday, September 21, 2014

Epilogue: A Few Reflections

We made it home close to 1:00 AM. From the time we first woke up at 4:00 AM in Florence, flew to Frankfurt, then San Francisco and drove to Atascadero, we were awake close to 30 hours. The drive home from SFO was especially hard. Perhaps because it was dark, or that the excitement of the trip was waning, or because we were just plain exhausted. Anyway, we made it home safely, thanks to gallons of caffeine and a driver change. When we walked in the house, our cat, Coco, came downstairs to give us a proper welcome home. Our son, however, did not.

Over the past 30 years, travel has become a piece of who I am. I think it’s become part of my DNA. For me, travel comes in two forms: business travel, which I tolerate, and group and family travel, which I love. For most vacation travel, there are historic places, great vistas, or wonderful museums. If cycling, there are often challenging climbs and memorable descents But, these are just the facilitative experiences for what travel can really accomplish; a bonding of the human spirit.

When you travel with family and friends, you contribute to the development of a common experience. You’re in it together. You create memories that otherwise would not be possible. When you share travel with others, it develops a common experience that can be relived and retold by everyone involved.

I often think about past cycling travel experiences with friends. They become more than a collection of daily rides. They create collective memories, build relationships and strengthen the very fabric that makes us human. People often ask me why I enjoy putting together travel experiences for my family and friends. Now you know.


Destination Florence is over and Aimless Tours’ next trip is yet to be determined. But, one thing we do know; it won’t come soon enough.

Thank you for reading this blog. I hope you have enjoyed it. Look for my next travel blog in May 2015 when I host a trip for the Cal Poly Alumni Association, and in September 2015 when our cycling group travels to the French Alps.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Deadline: Frankfurt, Germany

Aimless Tours: Destination Florence is coming to a close. It’s our last day and Kathy and Joe, and Rosey and I are heading home. It been quite a trip and the memories will last a lifetime. But, like most days on this adventure, the way it’s unfolding is nothing like how we planned it.

Last night we celebrated at “our” local restaurant which was literally only a few feet from the door to our flat. Fortunately, it just happens to be one of the best in Florence – in our humble opinion. A local place where the police come in to take food out, and the real locals are seated behind the kitchen with the football game on a small screen TV.

The plan for the evening was to finish any remaining food and adult beverages still in the flat either before or after dinner. A bottle of Chanti Classico was discovered on the table, plus a large bottle of beer in the frig. As is the rule in our neighborhood in Atascadero, beer first, wine second. Rule observed. After dinner (and a second bottle of wine), another bottle of Chanti Classico was found near a suitcase. Perhaps someone intended to bring it back to the States. Oh well, it just makes your suitcase heavy. It was then time for canolli from Grilli Café and grappa from the super market. Grilli Café was founded in 1736. Quite a place…so Italian!

Kathy and Joe had a 7 AM departure and had arranged for a driver to take them to the airport at 4:45 AM. So at 4 AM we were all up trying to decide if it was just a late night or actually morning. They left the flat on time and headed to the airport in torrential rain. A weather hangover from the historic hail storm yesterday. About 45 minutes later I receive a text from Joe: "Air France on strike. Flight cancelled". Dang, we could have partied longer!

Rosey’s and my flight was not until 10 AM so we had arranged to go to the airport later in the morning. No problems getting there, but when checked-in, the agent at the counter said, “Mrs. Parks, you are going to San Francisco. Mr. Parks, you are going to Zurich?” It was definitely an “oh shit” moment. After a few minutes of discussion, the problem was uncovered. Our itinerary was Florence to Zurich on Swiss, Zurich to Frankfurt, on Lufthansa, and finally Frankfurt to San Francisco on United. But, the Florence to Zurich flight was overbooked and Swiss was making us an offer to bypass Zurich and fly directly to Frankfurt. Plus compensate for the “inconvenience.” Deal done. I’m writing this from the Lufthansa First Class lounge in Frankfurt. Oh ya, I’m loving this part of the “inconvenience”.

Back to Kathy and Joe. With the Air France strike, everything on Delta and the few remaining Air France flights were fully booked. They too were made an offer. Stay in Florence one more day, hotel and meals courtesy of Air France, and fly home tomorrow (Sunday). Deal done for them too. They are now staying in a hotel almost on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Plus, one less flight for them too.

We’re not home yet. But, we’re working on it in true Aimless Tours fashion.

Tomorrow’s Post – The Epilogue

Friday, September 19, 2014

Today was biblical and tomorrow we fly.

We started the day in the normal way. Coffee and toast with ricotta and honey. It was then last minute shopping and yet more church touring. The reason for the church touring is because Rosey will be back in Florence next July with the Vocal Arts Ensemble. They will be singing in a number of churches and we were tasked with scouting them out.

After about 300 church visits, we hopped into a small restaurant for Panini’s and a little wine. We were eating outside and then skies began to grow gray and then very dark. Within a few minutes, it became almost black. Street lights came on. The couple sitting next to us calmly said, “we think it’s time to go in.” We picked up our meals and hurried inside. Within 30 seconds, the wind began to howl and hail poured down. It became as dark as night, people on the streets were screaming (no kidding) and soon the streets were white with hail. Water began to rise and came right up to the door of the restaurant. The shutters were pulled closed and there was a sense of panic all around.

And yes, these are real photos from today. Remember it's September not January

After about 15 minutes, the wind calmed down and the skies began to brighten. But, the damage was done. The hail was inches deep and had to be shoveled away.

The flat? Lots of water came in. We mopped up. The suitcase sitting next to the window had minimum damage.

Tomorrow, I’ll post more about today and the conclusion of our trip. It’s now time to pack and prepare for a long day of travel.

Thursday, September 18, 2014


Our little Aimless-Tours group experienced our own Great Race today. The goal was to travel from Florence to Lucca and spend a quiet, relaxing day in this ancient walled city. It all started very calmly about 8:30 AM. But before 1:00 PM we:

1) Walked through Florence to the train station, but missed the train because we could not find the little green machine to validate our tickets;

2) Took the next train to Lucca, which included a transfer in Pisa, but got on the wrong train in Pisa and ended up in Livorno on the coast: so we considered taking a cruise instead of going to Lucca;

3) Turned around and got back on a train and made it to Pisa. Next train to Lucca would be in 45 minutes, so walked across the street and had an espresso. Considered beer and wine but it was only 10:00 AM.

4) Boarded what we thought was the next train to Lucca but, 30 seconds before the train left the station, we realized we were on a train back to Florence.

5) Stayed on the same platform and a couple of minutes later the train for Lucca arrived.

6) We made it to Lucca at 1:00 PM. A nice lunch with Vino Rosso and everything was better.

This was a true Aimless-Tours adventure. Try to get to Lucca and we take you to Pisa. Try to get to Pisa and we take you to Livorno. Three hours later, we get you to Lucca.

The rest of the day was pretty normal. We caught the right train back to Florence. Went shopping for a little more wine, cured meats, and bread and made a great antipasti. Started searching for a place for dinner at 9:30 PM.

Since we’ve been at the flat, we’ve heard choral rehearsals and organ music but were unsure of the source. Tonight, we found out we have a concert hall adjacent to our flat! Mystery solved.

It’s now time for a grappa and bed.

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Today will be a day to remember. Oh yes, there was one more church, Santa Croce and a little more wondering around Florence for starters. But, the real excitement came when we thought Joe was going to be hauled off to prison. And the funny thing was that we really didn’t do that much wrong.

It all started so simply. Our plan was to get out of Florence for the afternoon and head into the Tuscan hills. There is a little town, Fiesole, just outside the city. The great part is that it is perched on top of a good size hill so it has incredible views of Florence. It also must be a great climb because cyclists were going up and down all day. The best way to get there is by bus; the number seven from Piazza San Marco. So with all good intentions, we purchased our round trip bus tickets and got on the bus. We literally went to the next stop when a member of the Bus Polizi boarded and began to ask for tickets. We proudly showed our tickets and he said, “Oh, but this is not validated. How long have you been on the bus?” About 30 seconds, replied Joe as he pointed to the location where we got on. It was less than half a block away. Too bad, said the Bus Polizi, your fine is $50 Euros EACH. Not panicking, Joe tried to explain that we just purchased them and they should be good. “Oh, but argue with me and you are going to jail,” he replied. At this point, other riders were panicking, and trying to distance themselves from the crazy Americans who didn’t know to validate their tickets. Joe kept his cool and in the end, we only had to pay a single 50 Euro fee, simply for not punching our tickets into a machine on the bus. Lesson learned. Other than that, Fiesole is a nice, quiet respite from the hassle and bustle of Florence.

The day ended, however, on a much happier and festive note. When we sat down to dinner (at 9:30 PM), there was a large party of perhaps 14 people next to us. It was a birthday celebration for their 77 year old mother/grandmother. As happy birthday was sung, we joined in and clapped at the end along with the family. Apparently, they were quite touched by this and “adopted” us for the rest of the evening. Cake was shared, stories told, laughs frequent, and kisses exchanged at the end of the evening. The Italian government, or at least the transportation department, may not be so great, but the Italian people are wonderful.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Part One
It was museum day: the Galleria dell’Accademia in the morning and the Uffuzi after lunch. Sandwiched in between was the Church of Santa Maria Novella and more wanderings about Florence by our Aimless Tours group.

The Galleria dell’Accademia is home for Michelangelo’s David. While I had seen the “fake” David before in Piazza Signorelli on past trips, I had never experienced the majesty of seeing the real David in person. I now understand why he is viewed by millions every year. At over 17 feet tall, he is awe-inspiring.

The Uffizi houses perhaps the greatest collection of Renaissance art in the world. A former palace of the famed Medici family, the Uffizi offers museum goes an overwhelming experience in sculpture and painting.

While I enjoy art and the Renaissance is of particular interest, going through both the Accademia and the Uffizi can be an exhausting experience. I think it’s all that slow walking, stopping, starting, and trying to look like you know what you’re doing. So, for those of you who would rather spend a day in Florence shopping or doing other things, here is Skip’s The History of Western Art from a Cyclist’s Perspective.

The Egyptians - triangles;
The Greeks - columns;
The Romans - prettier columns;
The Middle(Dark) Ages - bad;
The early Renaissance - good;
The Renaissance - better;
The High Renaissance- best;
Michelangelo - naked men;
Botticelli - naked women;
Durer - folded hands;
Notti - big meals;
Donatelli - a teenage turtle;
Bellini - best served with good champagne;
Leonard de Vinci - drawings of naked men;
Caravaggio - men in pain.


Part Two
Over the last couple of days, we have learned a lot about the neighborhood. First, it’s very centrally located. We are only about a block from the Duomo and everything is only a few minutes away. Second, we found a great restaurant which is right next door: Zio Gigi. It’s complete with an opera singing owner, a smart ass waitress, and the best food we’ve had in Florence. So far we’ve experienced papparadelle with wild boar, pasta with porcini mushrooms, white beans with olive oil, and Florentine steaks done to perfection. Tonight’s dinner was topped off with a Vecchio Amaro del Capo (gratis) and then grappa. We are very happy campers.

BTW - Many pictures in on this blog are courtesy of Joe Marotta Photography. It helps to have a pro as part of Aimless Tours.

Monday, September 15, 2014


Today, I thought I was going to kill my family. Not on purpose of course, but just through the sheer process of making them hike up mountain to the Chiesa of Santa Margarita in Cortona. The walk started out in a pleasant fashion as we sauntered through the quiet streets and piazzas of Cortona. Then, as my cyclists friends have experienced, we took a right turn and faced “the wall.” But, this wall was of steps; hundreds and hundreds of them. At first they were made of flagstone, but soon they turned to cobbles, and finally to just gravel held up by rows of small stones. I kept calling back to my family, “we’re almost there”, but soon they lost hope and were praying for a miracle. Like thousands before us, just as we were about to give up, we rounded one more turn and there it stood. Prayers answered, we entered the Chiesa, saw Santa Margarita herself, and headed back down the mountain. A glass of wine and a few moments of rest and all was forgiven (I hope).

Our day began with a car and driver to take us first to Assisi and then Cortona. The Fiat I thought I reserved turned out to be a Mercedes Benz van and the driver was, well, a typical Italian motorist. Staying on the correct side of the road is only a suggestion. Going 130K/hour on the freeway, he would slam on the breaks when a slower car happened to be in the high speed lane. And you should have seen the pedestrians run as he accelerated toward them.

Quote for the day: I’m your driver. I’m here for you and anything you want to do all day – except for that (drive us to the top of Cortona to the Chiesa of Santa Margarita….which is why we had to walk.)